i heart rome

Alitalia Flight

Rome to Newark Liberty

I was originally planning to travel to Rome airport by taking a taxi to Termini (Rome train station) and then take the express train to the airport. Since I really didn't do a lot of shopping I decided to space myself the grief and take the hotels cars service instead. The cost was €50. In comparison the cost of the taxi and airport train would have been €20+€12. I figured the extra €18 would save me a lot od sweat with my 60lb bag.

I was up this morning at 6 and out the door at 7.30am. It couldn't hurt to get there a little early. It's a good thing I did. The scene at Rome Fumicano Airport was pretty hectic this Sunday. First, if you are departing to an of the USA cities you must wait in a special line to enter the departure zone for American destinations. The line stretched through the airport but it moved pretty quick. Once I got to the front of the line I held out my passport and they didn't even look at it and waved me through. There's a secure feeling.

After gaining entry to the special area, I waited on the business class liine at the Alitalia check-in desk. There were five people on line at business and one agent, and about five in line on the Economy line with about five agents. Needless to say they cleared the economy line twice over with even clearing one person from business. Why do I always get in the line with people who have issues? They should have three lines, business class, economy class and "people with issues class". After the long wait I headed for security and passport control. The lines were also long here but they moved as fast as any other airport security line. I will say I found it odd the people can go through with shoes on and some even had bottles of water. Have they been reading the news?

After security I poked around the shopping area but nothing caught my eye. I had a few Euros to spend so I didn't take them home. Once you leave the shopping concourse to go to the gate, you take a shuttle to the departure area.

The departure gate area is a bit more modern and there are yet more shops here. This is where you will find the good duty free shop with some good buys on alcohol, cosmetics and perfumes. There is also food and some last minute extravagances such as a Prada shop.

I also spent a little time in the Alitalia lounge which was nothing special and only worth it to rob few bottles of water to take on the plane.

Todays flight left about 40 minutes late and promises to be 9 hours of absolute boredom.

Before departure we are served a glass of Spumante and once we are airborne we are offered a cocktail and nuts. The flight attendants also hand out a nice Bulgari travel bag filled with some travel amenities, Bulgari moisturizers and fragrance samples. That's a bit nicer then what Air France gave on the trip to Europe. I threw that one in the trash.

For our lunch today we are first served some pasta and a crepe with ricotta and mozzerella. The tomato sauce actually tasted pretty good. Along with the pasta we are served a belated glass wine that I continually demanded they keep full. Flight attendants have a keen way of disappearing when you want refills on wine or water.

After the pasta we have a choice of a meat or fish dish. I can stomach eating sturgeon on a plane so I selected the meat. Actually I couldn't stomach that either, it was terrible. At least I kept my wineglass full!

Once we finished eating our shoe leather they served a plate of cheese which had some parmagiano and some mystery cheese. I complimented this with some more wine.

Do you see a trend here?

To finish our meal we are served some small Italian pastries and coffee. I just chose to have more wine along with my pastry.

The whole meal service was pretty rushed and the flight attendants gave out a fair share of attitude. As they served they also continued to chat with each other instead of paying attention to the passengers. I always got "the look" when I asked for another glass of wine. I have to say that the Barbera wine they were serving was pretty good.

Once the meal was complete the flight attendants retired to the galley, had lunch and continued their gossiping.

Todays flight is on an Boeing 767. It's not a super jumbo but it's still a widebody jet. The business class cabin seats are comfortable but they don't come with any of the frills of other airlines comparable service. No seat massage, video games or even a little pocket where you can put your stuff. There is also no personal video. Just a big old fashioned screen in the front of the cabin.

We are almost 8 hours into the flight right now and I want off!

I wonder if I am having hot flashes. Whenever I am on a long haul flight I feel like there cabin is too hot and there is a lack of air. As I look around the cabin I see that everyone is in some sort of stage of sleep and bundled with blankets and heavy clothes. I want to sit here in my tee shirt I am so warm. I am a litle claustophobic and sometime get antsy on these flight. Even though I am in a more comfortable biz class seat, I still feel tortured.

Call me a nut but I really hate when everyone closes down the window shades during the flight. I would rather sit here and enjoy the bright daylight. A few minutes ago I opened the shade and took a peek outside. We have already crossed the ocean and must be over Canada. As I looked from the window I saw a great sight, there was a United Airlines 777 flying right next to us. He seemed to be keeping the same speed but at a slightly lower altitude. After watching this for a little while he came closer and passed right under us. The Friendly Skies...

For our pre-arrival snack we are having a small salad, chunks of Parmagiano cheese and some brischetta. Along with this we also get beverages and a nice piece of Italian chocolate with hazelnut filling.

OK, we are all packed in and ready for landing. It was a long flight but not too awful. Alitalia was decent but not my favorite. I think they could use a bit of guest service training and some modernization of their product. Next stop, Newark, Paris of the east!

Welcome home!

Rome Fumicino Airport

I am now at the airport ready to go! What a madhouse here. I am glad I got here early. our flight is leaving a little late but they will probably arrive close to our original time.

Today I am flying home on Alitalia. This should be and experience...

On my trip home I will write a overview and some closing thoughts from my trip.

It's time to go!

Le Streghe

Vicolo del Curato 13, Rome Near Castel Sant' Angelo

www.osterialestreghe.com

My last meal in Rome!

My feet are more then sore today plus I have developed a nasty blister. I was going to eat near my hotel today but I left my room at 8pm and since it was a warm night, the streets were bustling.

I remembered that during my long walk to the Trastevere last night I walked past a small Osteria which was right near the bridge to Castel Sant' Angelo. I picked up a brochure they had outside and stuffed it in my messenger bag (just in case). Well it came in handy.

The interior of Le Streghe is decorated with a combination of modern and traditional art on terra cotta colored walls. The room is lighted perfectly with sconces and the stone floor and wood beamed ceiling add to the atmosphere. Right now I am not going to brag about the service because it is a bit cold and the staff acts more like you are an annoyance rather then a guest. They aren't rude, they just are indifferent.

The menu at Le Streghe is typical Roman with all the pasta specialties, artichoke, fried zucchini flowers and the works. In addition to the menu pages of permanent dishes, there is a full handwritten page of specials from every category. Unfortunately the specials aren't translated into English and some are hard to figure out. The permanent menu is in English and Italian.

For my starter I got the deep fried artichoke (€5). As I described in an earlier post, the artichoke is opened up, crushed flat and then deep fried until the leaves are crisp. I thought the dish was very tastey but they cut off a little to much of the leaves. In my past experience, the crispy leaves were the best part!

For my pasta I once again ordered the spaghetti al cacio e pepe. I am sorry for being so unoriginal with all the choices on the menu but last time I had this dish I loved it and I wanted to have it one more time before I leave Rome. You know I will be trying to make this when I get home. I hear that Rachael Ray's recipe is pretty good.

My spaghetti with cheese and pepper was pretty good, but dude, I think you went a little heavy on the "pepe". My mouth is burning. I have to say the even though the dish was good, the cacio e pepe I had at Ditirambo was far superior. At Ditirambo, it was more creamy and they used tonnerelli (thick homemade spaghetti) which made it much richer.

Just to note, I am sitting right at the stairs which come up from the kitchen. All the salads and pasta dishes I see coming up the stairs look delicious. I have also noticed that they present their dishes beautifully here.

After my pasta I had a salad of arugula, parmigiano and pears (€7). I may have had a boring pasta, but the salad was amazing from the very first mouthful. Imagine the flavor of nutty arugula, with salty parmagiano and sweet pears. All this is dressed with tangy lemon juice and olive oil. Amazing. I think I am making this for company when I get home.

I don't think Le Streghe is too much of a secret judging the amount of people eating here. I'd say it is off the tourist path and well worth the walk to this neighborhood (I think this may be the area known as the Jewish Ghetto). It may also be a good lunch stop if you are going to, or returning from the Vatican.

The crowd here is on the sophisticated side so this may be a "non jeans night", although if you are wearing jeans it won't be an issue.

I would say this is one of my top 3 favorites of all the resaturants I've visited during this trip.

Total bill including 1 bottle of water and a split of Chianti €34 ($44).

Just to note, the desserts here look good and are beautifully served. I am passing and getting gelato at Giolitti instead. Tonight it's Baba al Rhum, nocciola and riso.

How's that for a last night in Rome?

Osteria del Pegno

Vicolo di Montevecchio 8 Near Piazza Navona

Tonight I am making my dinner choice by selecting a place which I passed earlier in the week and thought it might be worth a try. My basis for selecting it is that there was no one outside trying to steer you in, the atmosphere seemed cozy and it was off the main drag. Who knows maybe this will be a new hidden gem?

The interior of Osteria del Pegno has vaulted ceilings and is dimly lit by overhead lights and sconces with yellow/orange bulbs in them. Tables are set with light pastel colored cloths each with a candle for a touch of romance. The walls are decked in mirrors of multiple size and shapes in addition to wine bottles on shelving. I guess I would describe the look at "Italian country elegant". No red and white checked tablecloths here!

For my starter I am going traditional, Rigatoni al'Amitriciana (with tomato, bacon and red pepper). Along with this I requested an antipasta plate and saltimbocca as my main course. As I ordered, the waiter (who seems to be the man in charge), told me that this was too much and I should skip the antipasta. At least he was honest! I really did want some sausage.

Along with my meal I reguested wine but I didn't want the typical tasteless jug wine served in a pitcher. He suggested a split of chianti. I am not sure how much this cost, but it just "OK". Nothing special.

For my first course, the rigatoni was a bit disappointing. First the pasta was cooked past the al dente stage and the sauce was just "sauce". In a few of my past meals the tomato sauce was a bit more chunky. It didn't taste awful, but it also wasn't memorable.

Following my pasta I was served the Saltimbocca. I was a bit of an "el cheapo" and ordered it because it was one of the lower priced meat dishes on the menu. The dish was pretty good but again, not one of my favorites.

As in some other places, service here tonight was painfully slow. In every restaurant there is a big difference on if you get your food immediately or if you wait. I guess it depends on the kitchen and how much is being cooked at the moment. I am also surprised to see some people who came in after me to get food before me. Hello? How do you say "did you forget me" in Italian?

Dining at Osteria del Pegno is not completely horrible, just not memorable. If you want to visit a cozy place off the beaten path, this may be a good choice. If you want inspirational Italian food, go elsewhere.

Total bill €26.30

The Big Boo Boo

After lunch I returned to my hotel room to get my jacket. It has been getting progressively colder today. I first set out this morning with a sweater vest on, then returned to change into a long sleeve sweater, now I need a jacket. The gelato I had at Giolitti (cinnamon and banana) didn't help, it just made me colder.

What was my boo boo?

I made the mistake of laying on the bed. I didn't wake up until I heard the 6pm church bells ringing. It was a 3 hour nap.

This is vacation, right?

Matricianella (again)

Via del Leone 2, Roma

www.matricianella.it

This is my second time at Matricianella. The last meal I had here was pretty good, even though the service was a bit awkward.

My guess is that this time the service won't improve, but I'll see by the end of the meal. So far I have my menu, but otherwise I am being ignored.

Today is Friday so none of the specials have any meat. Catholics! For my pasta I am having the Spaghetti Carbonara, even though there is a yummy looking pasta with shrimp and zucchini on the menu. I had to have carbonarra one more time before I leave.

Their version of carbonarra (€8) was pretty thick with lots of cheese and bit of fatty bacon. It had a nice flavor but the dish was a bit heavy.

Along with my pasta I am also having the fried artichoke (€5) and fiore de zucca (breaded and deep fried zucchini flower). The artichoke is a typical Roman/Jewish dish where the artichoke is smashed and then deep fried until crispy.

Eating the artichoke was an adventure. You basically eat the entire thing, leaves and all. The leaves are crispy on the end and soft near the heart. It is a bit fiberous and parts are hard to chew. Regardless, it's pretty addictive. The way they salt it before serving it doesn't hurt.

Of course, the batter breaded artichoke flower was quite tasty. I am not sure if it has a particular flavor, but it was good anyway.

Service today was OK but still pretty slow. My total bill was €17.50 including a small bottle of water.

Little Watercolors

Everytime I travel to Europe I like to get a small watercolor as a souvenir. Usually you can find these at most tourist attractions for around $10 each. When I return home I have a mat made and frame them in a small antique frame.

In Rome you can find these little watercolors just about everywhere. The funny part is that everyone seems to have the same exact scenes, but in different colors and styles. What I discovered is that they all work off a printed line drawing of the scene and then paint it in their won style

The first watercolor I bought was at the Castel St Angelo and it was painted by a Romanian girl. It was €8. The scene which was painted was over the rooftops of Rome. At the time I really liked it because it reminded me of the view out my hotel window. When I returned to my hotel I leaned up against the wall on my desk and realized I was too find of it. It looked like a big blob.

Last night I set out to Piazza Navona and bought another one. This time I brought home a watercolor of the Piazza Navona that was more scenic. It was €10.

It's funny how prices on these paintings can vary by location bought. Shop around!

Thursdays Wrap Up

I hate to disappoint everyone but I only walked 15 miles on Thursday. I wonder if the pedometer is reading the steps correctly. It's hard to believe I am walking all this distance. One thing that may be throwing off the pace is the cobblestne streets. The irregular streets cause you to adjust your steps.

On Thursday I started my day at La Tazza d' Oro which is a famous coffee bar near the Pantheon. I had a cappucino which was pretty good but. Personally I like a macchiato better because it is like a cappuciono but with a lot less milk.

I have to say that no matter what "bar" you pop into the espreso is fantastic. The flavor is so rich and delicious. Could it be the water? The price is right also. You can usually get an espresso shot for about 80 cents. Cappucinos are slightly more. I was thinking about buying some coffee at La Tazza d'Oro to take home, but it's never as good when you make it yourself!

From the Pantheon I walked to the Campo de' Fiore to see the market and walk the streets in daylight. I have only been here at night before now. It's funny how each neighborhood changes character by day and night.

After having a disappointing lunch at Da Sergio, I wandered to the Vittorio Emanuelle Monument to get some photos and climb the steps for a birds eye view of old Rome. The monument is massive!

It was also a beautiful day with clear blue skies and so photo opportunities where prime!

From the Vittoria I walked around the back and a few blocks away to see the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin and the Bocca della Verita. It is said that if you lie while you stick your hand in the mouth of the Bocca della Verita it will bite off your hand. I didn't dare stick my hand inside, besides there were about a thousand Japanese tourists here waiting in line and taking photos.

From here my walk continued with a walk along the Circo Massimo and on to the Colloseum. I didn't go inside the Colloseum because I did that last time I was in Rome. It is just a fun to watch the tourists outside and the faux gladiators who charge you for a photo with them.

I am sorry to say that after the Coloseum I was sort of tired and walked back to my hotel for a short nap befor dinner.

I did stop for a small "riso" gelato at Giolitti on my way to the hotel!

Ditirambo (again!)

Tonight I was wandering around the Campo de' Fiore and couldn't really find any place exciting to eat. How could I possibly top last nights meal at Ditrirambo?

How about Ditrirambo again? After today's disappointing lunch at Da Sergio, I think I need a good dinner.

For starters I am having the Tonerelli e Cacio e Pepe (€8.50). That is a fat spaghetti with pepper and cheese. It seems to be a Roman specialty and I've wanted to try it. All the trattorias offer it and I am sure that here it will be properly prepared. This pasta dish is a white sauce based dish which is probably made by thickening the sauce with the Romano cheese and some of the starchy pasta water.

Oh wow! I just finished the dish and it was heaven. The sauce had a good romano flavor and the pasta was cooked perfectly "al dente". the pasta also seemed to be homemade.

The meal is also served with a basket of home made bread and rolls. Every piece in the basket is delicious. One of the rolls seemed to have walnuts in it and the bread is topped with toasted sesame seeds, the bread also seems to be a semolina bread.

Tonight I am having the same wine as I had last night, the Nero d'Avola. I believe this comes from Puglia which is the heal of Italy's boot shape.

For the main course I am having the pork filet with smoked ham and chestnut puree (€14.50) along with an insalata mista. I always feel I have to have some "green" with my meal. Usually in an Italian restaurant, your meat couse is just that, meat. No greens are included.

The pork dish was pretty attractive and had a good flavor. The pork filets were wrapped in a thin sliced smoked pork. On the side were some small roast potatos and the chestnut puree. I have to say that the dish was tasty but I found the pork to be dry. I forgot my general rule that I usually don't order pork in a restaurant because it is usually dry. I thought this would have been the exception. I don't really hold it against them, pork isn't always easy to cook.

On the other hand, the mixed salad was pretty good. It included romain, radicchio, arugula, cherry tomatoes and cucumber. You are given balsamic and olive oil to dress it yourself.

Tonight I am skipping dessert since I will probably have some gelato later.

The service at Ditirambo this evening is as good as it was last night, although one person who was friendly last night is absent this evening. Funny thing but a couple of the other guys here look like his brothers. Maybe this is a family affair?

I just remembered that today is Thanksgiving. Considering I didn't have turkey, this evenings meal was a pretty good substitute.

Tonights check totaled €39 ($51), a bit more reasonable then last night but I skipped a few frills.

After I offered my credit card to pay the check my waiter stopped and asked me if I wanted an amaro or grappa, I am not sure if this is traditional here or if I am getting this as a return customer. Regardless, I accept the offer and have the same amaro I had last night. The best way I can describe this is that it's a potent drink that is sort of sweet, syrupy, fragrant and bitter with a touch of menthol.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Da Sergio

Vicolo delle Grotte 27, Rome

I arrived at Da Sergio at just about 15 minutes after they opened. As I entered I got the look of, "what the hell are you doing here?"

The interior of Da Sergio is about as typical as you can get. Red check table cloths, tired old pictures on the wall, beamed ceilings and a stuffed boars head watches over you as you eat. The staff seems to be mostly female dressed in red and shite striped shirts an white caps. They also won't be winning any congeniality awards.

Since it is Thursday I thought I would try some Gnocchi. In case you don't know, Thursday is Gnocchi day in Rome. My dish is served up rather quickly and is loaded with Gnocchi in a meat sauce (€8).

The texture of the Gnocchi is pretty pastey and the sauce reminds me of school cafeteria food. Now that I think of it, the staff here also reminds me of the lunch ladies in an elementary school.

I really thought you couldn't get a bad meal in Rome. I guess I was wrong!