i heart paris

Reflections of Paris

The Paris week of my trip has ended and I am on my way to London.

I had to wake up this morning at a frightful 5:30 am to get ready for the airport. I was awake until around midnight last night so I didn't get a whole lot of sleep.

Sorry but there was no restaurant report from last night. I only ate a bag of potato chips and an apple pastry in my room. I was feeling a bit “under the weather” so I decided not to load myself with anymore foie gras or cheese. It was also raining all afternoon into evening so I felt like a drowned rat.

Not to mention...   I also had to pack and figure out how to get all my shopping treasures into my 2 bags and backpack. I brought along 1 extra duffel bag which was folded flat inside the front pocket of my luggage. Inside the duffel I stuff the boxed set of wine glasses, some food items, clothes, 2 bags of sea salt and numerous other silly purchases. I had planned to buy the wine glasses since my last trip to Paris so I brought a small box to pack them in which then would fit right into my duffel. When I purchased the glasses I learned that they were sold in a boxed set of 12. That box conveniently fit right inside the box I brought with me so they were well protected. Oh, I also put each glass inside a sock. OK, they were dirty socks but I will wash the glasses in the dishwasher when I get home!

After I stuffed the additional bag everything fit well with little space to spare. My backpack weighs a ton because I have 2 bottles of wine vinegar in it plus about 5 pounds of grey sea salt (don't ask).

I hope I don't see anything to buy in London because I really don't have any room for more stuff!

My Departure

This morning I was picked up by Paris Shuttle a little earlier than the 6:45 am time they stated. Early is better than late! I'm glad I was ready. I had the hotel call to make my Paris Shuttle reservation. Before I left home I sent them an email with my request but never heard back from them. I never use their booking system because I do not want to give my credit card in advance. I was the first person on the van then he zoomed around Paris, in the dark, and made 3 additional stops in various neighborhoods. It wasn't so bad since it was early and there was no traffic. We arrived at the airport at about 7:45 am.

Note - If you make a reservation with a shuttle service, make sure you get a confirmation and have their number to re-confirm while you are in Paris. Most hotels are happy to help.

I am flying to London on BMI British Midland this morning. The check in was a nightmare since there was a gang of tourists from Asia making things more crowded and confusing than they needed to be. Luckily, since I have Star Alliance Gold status, I avoided the long line and checked in at the business class counter.

I proceeded to my gate but only after ditching my last two 2 euro coins on a ham and cheese sandwich, frankly the thought of another croissant this morning gags me.

On this trip I think I ate more pastries, croissants, desserts and tarts than I have in the entire year. I also consumed more foie gras than I have probably eaten in my lifetime. Does anyone know the nutritional value of foie gras? I am sure it cannot be good for you since it tastes so good.

BMI Business Class Lounge

I am now in the British Midlands business class lounge waiting for my flight which leaves in about an hour. The lounge is better than waiting in the crowded stone cold waiting area (with a million other people) in the terminal. There is a little bit of food here plus alcohol including beer, wine, gin vodka, scotch, etc. The alcohol is lovely but I will stick to a Lipton Earl Grey tea (I stole a few bags cause it's so good!) and the Walkers biscuits that are available.

Reflections of Paris

I really had a good trip to Paris and I am so glad I came. I dread the credit card bills when I get home. Due to the low value of the dollar, everything seemed about 30-40% more expensive. I really didn't watch to closely how much money I was spending because I just wanted to have a good time. I haven't had a vacation since April when I went to Seville and Barcelona with some friends.

This was my 7th trip to Paris and I think that was my lucky number because everything went so well. The only thing that sucked was my hotel (full review to follow) and the weather. The only two days that I even saw blue sky were Sunday when I arrived and Friday morning. Although it was overcast it only drizzled on Saturday (yesterday) but it wasn't real bad.

The temperatures while I was here wasn't bad either, I thought it would be colder. Most of the days I wore a sweater with a hooded sweatshirt plus my leather coat. For a few I just wore the coat without the sweatshirt. Usually when I wore the coat with the sweatshirt, I found myself to be very warm in shops and stores. A lot of the stores in Paris have real bad ventilation and can be stuffy and warm, especially when you're wearing a coat. I suggest using the layering system where you can add or shed layers.

November was a good time to come to Paris. I really didn't care about the weather too much because I've been here so many times before. If the weather was worse I could have just spent more time in the shops and hit a few museums.

One thing I like was the absence of tourists. It didn't seem like there were many foreigners here except for some Japanese. I had no problems walking into popular restaurants without reservations (except for Saturday night), stores were busy but not overcrowded and the Metro was manageable. Of course I didn't try tot go to the Eiffel Tower or the Louvre.

Location is Everything!

In Paris, the location of your hotel is so important based on you lifestyle or taste. In the past I have stayed in the 1st arr near Les Halles/Chatelet, near the Opera, near the Louvre, in the Latin Quarter and in the Marais. I really liked the Marais best since it seems more intimate and like a village. As I said in a previous post, the Marais is sort of like NYC's Greenwich Village or Soho. It was also fun to walk around the Bastille area which was nearby.

Everyone has their favorite part of Paris. Many people love the St Germain/Eiffel Tower area because it is very cosmopolitan and fashionable, some prefer the St Honore and Arc d'Triomphe area because it is upscale and snooty. Be sure when you visit Paris you select your neighborhood carefully as a reflection of you lifestyle. There are also a few area that should be avoided altogether.

Well, its time to prepare for boarding. See you in London!

A friend once told me, “Whenever you visit Paris, shop as if you'll never return.”

Au Revior, Paris.

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My Last Day

I woke up early today to organize my belongings, dirty clothes and purchases in preparation for packing tonight and mt departure tomorrow.

I also had to go to the dry cleaner to pick up some stuff I left for cleaning. I am lucky there was a dry cleaner right around the corner. Dry cleaning in Paris isn't cheap. It cost me €22.50 to clean 2 pairs of jeans and a sweater. They did a good job trying to iron out all the wrinkles from my jeans that the manafacturer purposely put in them.

For my last breakfast I stopped by the boulangerie and picked up a “pain au raisin” and a “vienniose au cocolat”. The pain au raisin was a flat danish like pastry made with croissant dough, studded with sweet raisins and glazed with sweetness. Delicious and one of my favorites.

The second item from the boulangerie (I am a hog) was a vienniose which was like a sweet roll but studded with chocolate bits. Not one of my favorites.

I am on the Metro and there is another damn accodian player, go away. He is playing that song “those were the days”. Go away!

I am heading to the Opera Metro station right now to go to Printems to excange the scarf I bought the other day. The one I bought was made of acrylic and I think I want one that is wool. I saw one at Printemps in Rouen yesterday that I really liked. The acrylic one was €22.50 and the wool one was €30. I also get a 10% discount on top of that.

After Printemps I am going to walk a bit, head towards the Madeleine, see Fauchon and Heiodard then get lunch.

I am still on the Metro and now the accordian player is gone. We have been joined by a begger telling his sad story in French. Just like on the NYC subway, but in a different language. Blogging from Europe via Blackberry and AT&T Wireless

Return to Paris

I am on the 6pm train back to Paris from Rouen. It's not a fun ride and I think I found all the non-smokers of France.

While the puffing population sits in ventiated cars with opens seats and the luxury of space, the non-smokers are crammed into what space is left.

It's a shame that there is so little regard to personal space and fresh air.

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Train to Rouen

I am off the Rouen, the capital of Normandie and Frances 4th largest port. The ticket to Rouen was €36 so this better be a nice place. I originally thought the ticket was €18, but that was the one way price.

The train is a double decker train and I am in 2nd class, non smoking on the upper level.

The treat of the train are the 2 pastries I brought along. A pain au chocolat and a “crumble”. A crumble is like an apple tart but with crumbs on the top.

See you in Rouen. Blogging from Europe via Blackberry and AT&T Wireless

Rouen

I am off the Rouen today. I had originally planned to go to Bruges, Belgium buty last night when I checked the weathe it didn't look good. The forcast in both Belgium and Paris both called for cold and rain or flurries.

Since I was not planning my trip to Bruges I didn't have to get up very early. Instead I woke at my usual 9:30. After waking I look out the window and what do I see? Blue skies. This is the first blue sky I have seen since I arrived on Sunday.

I would still take the chance and go to Bruges but with the distance I may find bad weather when I get there and it is a 2.5 hour trip and I would probably arrive after 2pm. I figure that with 2.5 hour travel time each direction tghat 5 hours out of my day and I am not sure I am willing to give that up. Besides the ticket is quite expensive (over $80) and at best I would only have 3 hrs of daylight once I arrive.

Bruges will still be there next time.

So instead I am now on the Metro heading for the Opera station where I will change for a train to St Lazare rail station. I am going to Rouen in Normandy, a place I know nothing about. It was recommended by a few people on Fodors and I saw a restaurant in a Normandy cookbook that I have. That's all I have to go by.

Rouen is also a inexpensive train ticket and only an hour away.

I am also lost like a rat in a freakin maze at the Opera Metro statiion. I went to a platform and got on a train, then got off because it was the wrong one. I went upstairs and walked through the maze and found the platform only realizing I was back at the same platform.

I could only tell because it smelled of vomit.

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I Still Heart Paris

It will come as no surprise to anyone that I really love this city. Would you believe that in the 80's I came here once and departed early because I refuse to give what I called “those people” my money?

In the late 90's I returned once again on a business trip and on the companies money. I realized how when you are spending money people treat you differently.

I have been here so many times that I new have no interest in the museums and sights. I just like to hang out with the French peeps. Many people have asked me this week about what I am doing. The answer is NOTHING. I just walk a lot, see the street, go to the markets, shop and eat. I also take a lot of photos.

Oh, I will add photos and a photo album to all this later.

I finally have come to the point that I feel comfortable about using the Metro, wandering neighborhoods and speaking a bit (and I mean a bit) of French. Don't worry I am not fooling anyone. French with a New Jersey accent.

I have almost even learned to tolerate the ciggy smoke. You just cannot avoid it. Someday France will realize how damaging smoking is to your health. If it can happen in New York...

This is my first time staying in the Marais and I it's now my favorite area. Last time I was here I stayed at the Relais du Louvre and I think it was a bit, and I mean a bit, nicer than the so called “Grand” Hotel Jeanne d'Arc. The Louvre area was a bit dead but the pattiserie near the hotel was good and there was easy access toi the Metro.

Two years ago I stayed at the Hotel Britannique and I really liked it but right now, with the value of the dollar, it's out of range. Before those hotels I stayed at the Le Grand Intercontinental, but I didn't pay for that.

Years ago when I first came here I stayed at a hotel on the rue des Ecoles in the Latin Quarter. I hated the hotel and moved to another which was the Royal Cardnial. Once I switched hotels I found the second one to be worse than the first. One had brown water, the other had no light and no air. My biggest fear.

Because of that stay  I am really not found of the Latin Quarter, nor am I interested in spending my vacation with students.

I hated Paris back then, people were nasty, I was poor and Paris was expensive. I could barely afford a good meal. But there were always the eclairs.

Earlier this week I wandered past the Royal Cardinal on my wy to the Metro station and I remembered my past and also reflected for a moment about how far I have come.

Yes, I am still staying in cheap hotels but now I can shop and eat as I please. I never have to worry about buying a €2 cafe eclair or a €60 sweater. I have also learned in my stupid life that all this can go as quick as it came.

I think Paris is a challenge. For me it had to be conquered because 20 years ago it abused me. Now it's my turn and it's on my terms. OK, I really don't have to stay at a budget hotel, and the Jeanne d'Arc was pushing it. I could have at least stayed at the Caron de Beaumarchais, Axial Beaubourg or the Britannique, but the value of the dollar sucks! Three years ago the dollar was worth about 35 % more.  WOW! It was all so cheap 3 years ago!

“And this too shall pass”

As I sit here on “Beaujolais Nouveau Day”, in a bar on the rue St Croix de la Bretonnerie, I realize one thing, a drunk is as obnoxious in Paris as he is in New York.

So let it be written... Blogging from Europe via Blackberry and AT&T Wireless

L'toilettes

So I walk into the bazaar d'Hotel de Ville department store to use the toilet. I hit the restroom on the 2nd floor and walk throught the door. OH! There is a lady in here!  Pardon! Excuse e moi!

I back out and look at the door fearing I mad a quick mistake. The door has that unoversal symbol of man/lady on it, I look close to make sure. Yes, that is a man and a lady. I go back in and realize this is a unisex bathroon with men's and ladies stalls clearly marked.

I guess men are slobs so where it is ok for us to share a restroom, we cannot pee in the same toilet. At least not in Paris.

Well that's better than the other thing you commonly see (sorry Mom). It is not out of the ordinary to see am man “relieving” himself on the street, on the Metro platform or in an alley. Some don't even seem to try and hide it.

To much vin rouge I guess. Blogging from Europe via Blackberry and AT&T Wireless

Happy Beaujolais Nouveau Day!

Today is the day that the 2004 vintage of Beaujolais Nouveau wine is released throughout France. It is a day to celebrate the new wine and it looks like the bistros throughout the city are ready to party this evening.

I hear it is also a day where people get very drunk on very cheap wine.

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