i heart paris

Auberge de Jarente

Tonight I decided not to venture too far from my hotel. In fact I stay right on the street, 3 or 4 doors down.

Auberge de Jarente offers a 3 course meal with a pichet of  wine (about 3 glasses) at €21 and an extended menu at €30. The selections range from meat to seafood and are mostly basque specialities.

The atmosphere here is simple and reminiscent of some places I visited in Spain. The walls are warm toned and tables stained in light wood finish. This is definity an unpretentious neighborhood joint.

For my entree I select the “Piperade St Jean” which is a dish like scrambled egg with onion, peppers and a nice slice of what seemed to be spanish ham on top. This was very tangy and tasted good.

For the main course I selected the “caille” which was quail cooked in “the style of the chef”. Hmmmmm, sounds like mystery preparation. In case you were wondering, caille is quail and, don't panic, its like a cornish hen.

The quail was served with a side of sliced fried potaoes which had a garlic and parsley flavour. To add insult to injury, they drizzled olive oil over the top. Very good, like thick cut potato chips (and I love potato chips).

Oh, the quail was good but not as delicate as I like. It was in a tasty gravy which was good for mopping up with the bread. The garlicky olive oil from the potatoes was the best part,  equally as good as a mop sauce!

For dessert I ordered (he famous Parisian dessert “ouefs a l'neige” I think that translates as “eggs in the snow”. It sounds so graceful, so gentle, and it is. Basically, it's egg merangue (how the hell do you spell that) floating in a custard sauce. This is the first time I had this and although it was delicious, it was so light it left me wanting dessert!

The pichet of wine was enough for about 3 glasses and enough to give me (a lightweight) a buzz.

Service was good and very fast, in fact too fast. I wanted sit for a bit. The people working here were all very friendly, exchanging smiles and assisting wherever possible (but with limited English). The menu was also a bit hard to read, when I enquired about on item which I was unfamiliar with I  was told it was “Bugs Bunny”. I replied, “you killed him?”. Pass!

Overall rate for this place is...

3 stars for atmosphere, 3 stars for food and 3 stars for service. A solid 3 and a good place for lunch or dinner if you are in the area, but don't go too far out of the way. Also a decent value.

3 course meal with a pichet of wine - €21.OO ($27)

Auberge de Jarente, 7 rue de Jarente, 75004 Paris, tel 01 42 77 49 35

Closed Sunday and Monday

No english menu.

Blogging from Europe via Blackberry and AT&T Wireless

Le Caveau de l'Isle

36 rue Saint Louis en I'Isle
75004 Paris

4er Arrondissement - Ile St Louis
Metro - St Paul, Pont Marie

Tel 01 43 25 10 26

www.lecaveaudelisle.com

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La Caveau de l'Isle is a special little bistro I found while wandering streets and reading menus at the many bistros on the picturesque Ile St Louis. This is the perfect place to stop for lunch either before or after a walk on rue Saint Louis en I'Isle. The atmosphere would also make this a nice place for a romantic dinner. La Caveau is one of my favorite restaurants in Paris.

[the ambiance]

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The atmosphere here is a mix of rust colors, textures and stone walls with a art nouveau touch here and there. There is nice light jazz music playing in the background. The tables are decorated with white cloths and bamboo place-mats. I like the glassware here, I went and bought them at A. Simon (the restaurant supply) yesterday. They were a great buy!

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Menu - The set price lunch menu here is €19.50 and offer 3 courses. There is a wide variety of tempting selections including meats, fish and some other “stuff” that I won't eat.

[i'm starved!]

When I received my menu it came with a glass of calvados and a small bowl of roast peanuts. I thought to myself, how nice! At the end of the meal I was charged for the calvados! I think when I sat down the server asked me if I wanted one and I didn't understand what she said and I "may" have said "oui". My fault.

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Entree - Like I said in some of my other posts, no duck is safe while I visit France. My entree is my favorite once again, Terrine de foie gras au pain campagne. This dish is beautifully served with crusty toasted country bread, bits of tomato, toothpick thin slivers of carrot, parsley and chive. It is not a huge entree but satisfying and with no surcharge, as foie gras usually has. Delicious.

Plat - Oh my! For my main course I selected the duck breast dish beautifully named, Magret de canard, sa sauce au meil et son gratin Dauphinois. Yes, this trip is now formally the "Duckfest 2005". All the ducks of France are now in hiding. This was the most delicious meal I've had in Paris.

The plat (or main course) wasn't large but was very satisfying. I do have to say that portions served in Paris are always "just right", after all this isn't the Cheesecake Factory! The duck breast was served “pink”, by my request, atop a potato gratin with sliced warm apple. All this was in a tangy reduction sauce which tasted like it was made with honey (meil) and a bit of vinegar. This was served with what seemed to be pureed carrots on the side. It doesn't get better than this. By the way the potato gratin was expertly cooked.

[le plateau de fromage]

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For dessert I've decided to get the Plateau de fromage instead of sweets. I can (and will) get a pastry or tartelette at pastry shop later.

The "Plateau" cheese plate is amazing. It includes 4 small wedges of cheese, a chevre bouchon (this is goat cheese, 2 pieces), a creamy camembert, and a wedge of ripe tasty Reblochon. The three cheeses offer something creamy, something tangy and something strong. The strong cheese may not be for everyone and is a bit challenging but delicious! The cheese is served with some crusty baguette. I never know whether to eat the rind on these cheeses or not. I usually only eat the rinds on brie and camembert but I don't eat them when they are dark colored.

The total bill for lunch is €33.45 including one glass of bordeaux at €5.60 and the accidental calvados at (yikes) €7.90. Without the calvados it would have been only €25.45 ($32.45).

[in my opinion]

This was truly a nice meal. Not only did they offer good service but the atmosphere was relaxing and comfortable. In retrospect, La Fontaine de Mars near the Eiffel Tower use to be my favorite bistro but in the last 2 days I found 2 new places that I think have better food at a better price.

The restaurant is not elegant, it's just nice and cozy without packing people in on top of each other. The restaurant was so cozy that i sat and had a 2 hour lunch! I really enjoyed every bite of my meal. I also had a peek at everyone else's food. Everything looked delicious! Everyone at La Caveau de l'Isle was very friendly, welcoming and spoke English. They don't over pamper.

For price/value I would consider La Caveau de l'Isle a best buy. While in Paris I would make an effort to visit La Caveau de l'Isle, you won't be disappointed. I can't wait to return.

La Caveau de l'Isle also has an English menu available.

This is a edited blog originally published live via Blackberry from Paris.

Miss Manon

You know I can never pass by a good looking boulangerie/patissier. I got a late start this morning because I stayed up til 2am last night. I was going to just eat on the fly today but I came across this place “Miss Manon” on my way to look for a cleaner/laundry place. Good thing too because its right up the street from the hotel.

My poison of choice this morning is a “painau chocolat” and some sort of a orange flavored croissant. Along with this I am having a grande cafe au lait. All this for €5.60

The place is ...

OOOOPPPPS! This review is being retracted, I was eating my pain au chocoat and there was a huge hair in it!

I think I rate this place -4 stars.

OK, I didn't need to eat 2 pastries anyway!

Blogging from Europe via Blackberry and AT&T Wireless

Baracane Bistro de L'oulette

It's been a long day. A lot of walking (as I usually do).

I saw this place recommended in a number of boos and also on the web. It seemed attractive because they offer reasonable price fixrd menus. The price fix menu is great here because you can select from anything on the menu with supplements on a few items.

This menu is very interesting and features food and wine from the southwest of France. I have to say the menu  was a little hard to read and understand but I managed through most and had a little help from the friendly staff that works here.

The atmosphere is quaint with cream colored walls with photos and prints hung here and there. Seating is tight but not too squished.

Set menus include one with just entree and plat at 22€, a second which adds dessert for 27€ and a third which adds wine at 37€. There are at least 6 or 7 items in each course listing. It seemed to ne that there was a good variety of fish dishes.

I ordered some sort of mystery fish which seems to be served in a sauce with olives and thyme mashed potatoes.

For my entree I ordered the foie gras de canard pate which was served with a few slices of a warm spiced bread (I think). Why do I like foie gras so much? It's as smooth as butter with a very light flavour. I think it's a special treat and if you ever get to France you must try it because it's more affordable than in the states. At this bistro, there is a supplemental charge of about 6€ to the fixed price menu.

I love these fixed price menus because you know what you are paying as you order.

My plat (main course) was tjhe mystery fish. I don't know what it was but it was a simple white fish which was roasted and topped with an olive tapenade which seemed slightly peppery. On the side were some very chunky mashed potatoes. The fish seemed a bit overcooked but was delicious nonetheless. I am not a fish eater so that's a complement.

I am skipping dessert at this restaurant to keep the budget low this evening. As I breezed over the menu there wasn't anything that caught my eyem Besides I picked up a pastry at Boulangerie Julian earlier and it's waiting for me in my hotel room. It's a Tartelette Almondine (almond tart) and I can't wait to eat it. At 1.90€ I think it's the worlds best bargain!

Tonight I am finishing off my meal with a small espresso.

How do I rate this place?

Service - 4 stars, they are very friendly and assist in English.

Atmosphere - 4 stars, cozy and warm plus I didn't smell much ciggy smoke.

Food - 3.5, enjoyable with a feeling of home cooking.

Total bill including the foie gras supplement (6€), a glass od white wine and an espresso was 34.50€ ($44). And remeber that includes the service charge.

Baracane Bistro de L'oulette, 38 rue Des Tournelles, 75004 Paris. Tel 01 42 71 43 33

Located on the edge of the Marais close to the Bastille and Place du Vosages.

Blogging from Europe via Blackberry and AT&T Wireless

Le Cosy

26 rue du Mont-Thabor
75001 Paris

1er Arrondissement - Louvre, Jardin des Tuileries
Metro - Concord, Tuleries

Today, I had my mind set on going to restaurant I've seen recommended many times called "Lescure".  Lescure was near the rue St-Honre where I was doing some window shopping. Window shopping... yes. I can't afford anything on this exclusive street. When I arrives at Lescure, I backed out because the restaurant was packed and the seating was communal. I can't eat with people I don't know when I am dining solo. It's a shame because their menu looked tasty and the place looked real authentic.

Disappointed,  I decided to head back toward Les Halles to try the bistro named Le Poulet au Pot, which I also comes highly recommended. As I walked towards Les Halles, I remembered the was another restaurant along here called "L'Adoise" that I want to try. Unfortunately when I arrived L'Ardoise was closed, as are many other places on Mondays. A few steps away, right next door I came across a place called “Le Cosy” which was small and cute and wasn't too busy.

[the ambiance]

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The atmosphere is best described as a warm and cozy cafe. The walls are texture painted in a dark ochre and there is a small, but tight, bar in the front with a larger dining area in the back. The lighting is semi intimate and subdued without being too dark. The tables, chairs and other furniture is in cherry tones. Very “cosy”!

[the menu]

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The prix fixe menu for lunch is €12.90 for an entree and plat (appetizer and main course) and €14.50 if you would like to add dessert. The fixed menu has 2 choices in each course 1 is usually fish. On the menu board are 2 choices from each category, they have an a la carte menu but if you order from this you could expect to pay substantially more. The daily "prix fixe" menu is always the best deal. The selections at Cosy aren't highly original but all of them are very fresh and sound delicious. Everyone in the cafe seems to have ordered from the set menu.

[good food]

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Entree - For my first course I select a carpaccio of tomato and fresh mozzarella salad. This comes as thinly sliced tomatoes in olive oil topped with mozzarella and slivered basil. The dish is very fresh flavoured and is tasty and satisfying.

Plat - For my main course I selected "Bavette a l'echalotte Taglatelles". That sound fancy! The dish is a cut of meat (maybe skirt steak) in a dark wine flavoured shallot sauce served with fettuccine noodles. The sauce on the noodles and meat was delicious. The shallots were well caramelized until there were sweet and the sauce had a good strong pepper flavour. The best part was mopping up the sauce with the crusty french bread, which was included with the meal.

I noticed other people ordering the second selection on the prix fixe menu which was a cod fish in a cream sauce. It was a huge chunk and looked delicious!

Wine - Another nice touch at Le Cosy is the wine which was offered. Wine is by the bottle, 1/2 carafe or 1/4 carafe. I ordered the 1/4 carafe which gave me enough small glasses to feel a little too relaxed. The prices for wine are very reasonable. Bottles run around €20, 1/4 carafe @ €4.70-5.70, 1/2 carafe @ €7-10. Try to get a glass of wine in NYC for 6 bucks! I ordered a 1/4 carafe of Cote du Rhone. It was a good compliment to the meal. How do the French drink wine with lunch then go back to work?

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Dessert - For dessert, the selections were a creme caramel and a chocolate mouse. I ordered the creme caramel. It wasn't too eventful but was a light finish to a good meal.

[in my opinion]

For food I give Le Cosy 4 hearts. Not imaginative but expertly prepared and good taste. The service was not attentive but they were polite and friendly. This is a simple neighborhood place but is warmly decorated and comfortable. I enjoyed sitting to relax and have lunch.

For lunch the total bill at Le Cosy for the entree, plat, wine and coffee (cafe or espresso) was €21.30 (about $27). Where else are you going to have a nice lunch for $27 including wine? The fixed price dinner menu is €20

Le Cosy isn't a gourmet restaurant but it is a good place to stop for a nice lunch at a great price. Le Cosy is also very close to the Louvre and would make a nice mid-day stop when spending the day exploring the galleries. I actually enjoyed my meal here more than my $50 meal at the popular La Fontaine du Mars bistro.

This is a edited blog originally published live via Blackberry from Paris.

La Fontaine De Mars

129 rue Saint Dominique
75007 Paris

7e Arrondissement - Eiffel Tower, Invalides
Metro Ecole Miltaire, La Tour Maubourg

Tel 01 47 05 46 44

Today I decided to go to my favorite bistro, La Fontaine De Mars, for lunch. Although I think this bistro has great food, I'll consider it a treat because it's not cheap. Entrees (appetizers) run about 9 to 13 euros and plats (main courses) are around 20 to 28 euro. Add wine and dessert and you have blown an entire weeks grocery money.

[friendly greetings]

I've been to La Fountain de Mars many times before. One thing I have to say is that the greeting here is always warm and cordial. Christiane is your vivacious hostess and you can be assured she will take care of you with her bright personality and pretty smile. There is no need to describe her appearance, you'll know her when you see her. In fact you'll feel like you've known her all your life. At the end of this post are some photos of other dishes I have enjoyed at La Fountain de Mars on previous trips.

[warm and cozy]

La Fountain de Mars is located on rue Saint Dominique, which is a short walk from the Eiffel Tower. Rue Saint Dominique is a neighborhood street and has lots of shops, markets and bistros which seem to be patronized by mostly local residents. It's a fun place to walk after visiting the Eiffel Tower. Once inside, the atmosphere of La Fountain de Mars is classic French bistro with red check tablecloths, decorative antiques on shelves and framed prints showing old photos of the bistro. The menu is uncomplicated and presented on a copied sheet of paper. Dessert specials are listed on a chalkboard on the wall.

[comfort food from the southwest]

Today, I ordered a grilled goat cheese with endive and ham as my entree and cassoulet for my main course. I've had the cassoulet here before and it is delicious and the perfect French comfort food. The food here is in the style from the French southwest featuring Cahors wine from the southwest as well.

Entree - My first course was delicious. It was a salad of chopped endive and a spiced ham (it tasted like salami) topped with a bread crouton and a round of goat cheese. The dressing seemed to be a vinagrette with whole grain mustard. I loved it. 13€

Speaking of bread, this bistro has the best crusty wheat bread which they serve in a basket. I like to eat it with butter and their very HOT dijon mustard slathered on it.

Plat - As mentioned above, my main course was the cassoulet. If you like cassoulet then this is a good place to visit. This cassoulet is a thick stew with beans, duck meat, sausage and bits of ham, the portion is huge and can easily feed two. I will say that I did find it a bit to salty. 25€

La Fountain de Mars always has a good list of delicious desserts but today I skipped dessert because there are good pastry shops in this area and I want an almond macaroon and maybe a tart.

The total bill is 40.50€ with coffee (no wine or bottled water or dessert). Service is included in the price.

[in my opinion]

Everytime I visit La Fountain de Mars there is always something to catch my eye or senses... Sometimes it's the local families dining here, occasionally it's the excessive cigarette smoke and today someone is here with their dog. The dog is sitting on the banquette with the person, in New York City the health dept would shut you down for that!

One thing that is always consistent here, good food and good service. The prices are a bit high but for a real Parsian bistro experience, it's worth it.

[additional photos]

These are some additional photographs from past visits.

This is a edited blog originally published live via Blackberry from Paris.