It has been a long day.
The trip to Rouen really wore on my neves. I returned to Paris on a stuffy and congested train full of smokers, students and commuters. From there I hit the Metro and it was equally as crowded.
Do you know how I am feeling?
I popped by a few recommended places this evening but they all seemed to be “packing them in”. This place was recommended by a guy named OakGlen who has been following me on my journey and recommending place to try. Thanks!
After deciding that I didn't want to be crowded, walking by Le Relais de Saint-Paul was a welcoming sight. The atmosphere was nicely lit with sconces on the walls and candles at each table. The tables are properly set with starched white cloths, wine glasses and beautiful charger plates. The walls are light colored and made of field stone with beamed ceilings. On the walls are mirrors and a variety of still life paintings.
Good music after a long day is so important. They are playing Natalie Cole in the background, you know that album she did where she sang everyone elses songs. Later the music switches to a soft bosa nova.
For my entree I order, what else, foie gras. Is this beginning to sound like a pattern? This foie gras is served with a side of homemade fig conserve and crusty homemade white toasted bread. Tasty indeed. I have yet to meet, or eat a foie gras I didn't like!
I dared to order fish for my main course. Why do I say dare? Because I am not a big seafood eater and like only the whitest and mild fish. On two of the fixed price menus they either offered turbot or doarade (sea bream). I selected the turbot which they recommended as the most mild.
It was prepared in a creamy chablis sauce. With a side of mashed potato. It was beautifully served, although this fish was a little strong for me, I think it tasted good and was prepared artfully. A fish lover (or cat) would have enjoyed it.
I had a glimpse of other main courses (especially the beef) and they all looked amazing. I wish I had ordered the beef but I was just sick of meat.
The restaurant also has a good, but not cheap, wine list. I ordered a half bottle of a 2001 Cotes de Bordeaux which was $11 and a good choice. Most half bottles are €11 to €13 and full bottles in the €23-30 range.
Service was excellent and when I had problems understanding the menu, I was immediately helped in English.
For dessert I will select L'assiette de Fromage (mixed selection of cheese) since I have a tartelette almondine in my bag to eat later.
The cheese plate for dessert is truely amazing. This is the most genourous amount of cheese I have received in all of France. There are 5 ample wedges of cheese. They iclude a brie, goat bouchon, blue cheese, muenster and a roblechon. Amazing. Amazing. I order another glass of bordeaux with this. Such a treat! The goat bouchon and blue cheese were the best.
After the meal the owner informed me that he gave me both the turbot and the dorade on my main dish. That would explain why I had 2 pieces of fish and they both tasted different.
That was very nice.
I also learned that the owner is an American from Atlanta who was transferred to Paris and decided to leave the corporate world and stay in France. He bought this restaurant and is now his own boss and still living in Paris.
Le Relais du Saint-Paul is a romantic restaurant and relaxed evening at a good price. It's a greaty escape from a hectic day and my guess is that food and service is consistent.
There are 3 fixed price menus at €19, €23 and €38 for the “gourmet” menu.
I highly recommend this restaurant after a hectic day in Paris or for a romantic evening.
I will rate this restaurant very well and a nice relaxing evening while in Paris. For food it is a solid 4, for service a 3+( because it was personable but not attentive), for atmosphere it gets a romantic 5.
I would add this to your list if you want a nice unpretentious place to dine.
My total bill was €48 ($65) which included my meal at €32, a half bottle of wine at €11 and an additional glass of wine at €5.
Le Relais Saint Paul, 33 rue Francois Miron, 75004 Paris, tel 01 48 87 34 20
Worth it for the cheese course alone! Blogging from Europe via Blackberry and AT&T Wireless
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