i heart montreal

Au Petit Extra

1690 rue Ontario Est | Metro Papineau, then a short 8 minute walk.

Once again it's a hot night. I took the un-air conditioned Metro a few stops to the Papineau station then walk about 6 long blocks to Au Petit Extra. I choose this restaurant tonight because it was one of my favorites from my last trip and always highly recommended.

The atmosphere here is very cozy and typical of a good bistro in Paris, light wood floors, a dark carved wood bart, school house lighting and chalkboard menus.

Prices range around CDN$7.50 for starters and CDN$15-23 for main courses. Each meal comes with a small appitizer soup or salad.

The starter salad is actually quite good, mixed greens, watercress and some marinated celery and tomato. This is dressed with a delicious sweet vinegrette. The sald also has a distinct basil flavor but I didn't know if it was in the greens or the dressing.

I skipped the "entree" or starter course because the meal comes with the above mentioned salad and I didn't think I needed to eat heavy. No need to make a hog of oneself.

For my main course I selcted the "Pave de Mahi-Mahi et Viniagrete au The' Vert" (CDN$23.50). Daring. I usually don't order fish. Last time I was here I had the duck, but it's so hot that it doesn't seem appetizing. I usually like mahi-mahi so I hope it will be OK!

The mahi-mahi dish was beautufully served and had jasmine rice, matchstick carrots and snow peas on the side. The dish had sort of an asian influence. The sauce it was served in was tasty but I failed to see the "the' vert" (green tea) flavor. Although I enjoyed the dish I found the fish to be slightly undercooked. I am not sure if this is how it is served or if the chef goofed. Regardless I was able to separate the pink portion.

For dessert I had a choice between Tiramisu with strawberries, creme brulee or a tarte nicoise which was like a citron tart. I picked the creme brulee (CDN$4.75).

The creme brulee is served in a small bowls (hey I have those bowls at home). The texture is thick and soft with a good vanilla taste. Probably as good as any creme brulee you'll ever get. I could eat 2.

I would give Au Petit Extra 4 hearts for good food beautifully served. For service I don't give them a very high grade because I don't think it was very personal.

If you want a table either reserve or arrive before the rush. I noticed that around 8pm people started filling the place.

One warning, there is no English menu. Beware the mystery names that may show up (Monkfish, Lamb liver, gizzards). The staff is pretty good at assisting with the French words.

Total bill CDN$39.50 (US$36), not including a starter but I did get a glass of Rose wine, coffee and dessert.

I hated their coffee. It tasted like it had been on the burner all day. maybe it was "French Roast".

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Le Paris

1812 St Catherine Ouest, Montreal (Downtown)

Shoping on rue St Catherine? Le Paris is located on the far west end the rue St Catherine shopping mecca and is a great place to stop for some rest and good food. I read in a few places that Le Paris ranks as on of the top 5 best restaurants for French food in Montreal.

The bistro is a small place with a rustic interior with weathered walls covered with misc prints of no paricular theme. In fact, the entire place has no theme or decorating style at all but it seems to come together to give Le Paris a homey "Parisian" atmosphere. Each table is covered with burgundy tableclothes to match the banquettes and a bouquet of fresh flowers

I must say, as I entered, the staff was very friendly. As I was seated I seemed to be greeted with a "bonjour" by every waiter in the place. Le Paris is also a welcoming place on this hot summer day because they are very nicely air conditioned and actually serve ice in their water.

Le Paris offers a price fixed 3 course lunch menu which is based on the price of your main course. The prices range from around CDN$12-20.

For my starter I had a choice of a green salad or "salade quinoa" which was quinoa (a type of grain) laced with green onion and bits of duckmeat. It was very delicious.

For my main course I am having a bavette in a sauce "eschallot" which is a flank steak in a shallot sauce It is served with french fries. The meat was very good and cooked to perfection. The shallot sauce had a nice sweet flavor from the wine reduction and caramelized shallots. The fries we also good but not the best french style "frites" I have had. There was also some cauliflower on the side. It was pretty mushy but I am not a cauliflower fan anyway.

For dessert there was nothing special, a rubarb compote or ice cream. I got the ice cream. I have some almond cookies from a bakery in my bag to eat as I walk.

Le Paris offers a good solid Parisian style menu with meals either a la carte or prix fixe. The prix fixe menu is a pretty good deal.

I would give Le Paris 3 hearts for food and 4 hearts for service. The atmoshphere is also warm and friendly. They get 5 hearts for good air conditioning.

Total bill CDN$22.25 (US$20).

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Boris Bistro

465 Rue McGill, Montreal (Old Montreal)

www.borisbistro.com

I spent the morning wandering around old Montreal, poking in and out of the shops on rue St Paul. It's a beautiful Sunny day but it is a bit hot, not too humid.

Lunch today is at Boris Bistro which is another place I liked last time I was here. Hopefully I will like it again.

For a starter I ordered the pomme frites which are fried in duck fat. How sinful is that?

For my main dish I really wanted what I had last time I was here which was the duck confit and salad with lentils but I thought I should be more adventourous and order something different. I picked the tripple decker duck sandwich. The waitress says it has apples, sprouts, mango mayo and red onion on it. I asked her to skip the red onion.

Both the fries and sandwich came at the same time. The sandwich was decent but lacked a little character. It seemed to have some duck confit and apple but the mango mayo taste was not noticible. The frites were good but not too hot. They were served with what I think was a remoulade mayo for dipping.

In all it was a decent lunch but nothing exceptional. I would give them 3 hearts. Service was also friendly, but not smothering. I just wish they would put ice in the water...

Total bill CDN$20.80 (US$18) not including wine, coffee or dessert.

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Thursday Morning

I got a late start today. I spent most of the morning message around with my laptop connection and work email. Even though I got up early I didn't get out of the room until 11.30am. I did manage to go outside for a short walk to get some breakfast, a coffee, apricot/cheese danish and an almond croissant all for about 6 bucks.

I have reported on my day yesterday but I spent the day wandering the rue St Denis doing some shopping then I was suddenly exhausted (at about 5pm) and went back to my hotel for some rest. I napped until about 7pm, I felt guilty doing this but why should I run myself ragged?

Today it is so nice that I want to walk around scenic old Montreala and maybe go to the Montreal tower which is at the old Olympic stadium. Who know I may ditch that and do something else.

I didn't mention, I have a headache. I took some Excedrine but that didn't help. Now I have a headache and jitters...

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Network Outage

Due to a network outage at my server, some posts did not publish yesterday. They have been restored and now appear below this post.

Au Pied de Cochon

536 rue Duluth est, Montreal | Metro Sherbrooke

www.restaurantaupieddecochon.ca

In case your wondering I think the name means the "foot of the pig".

After wandering around in the shops of rue St-Denis all afternoon I retired to my hotel room and had a fast nap and shower. I needed that but I could have slept through the night. But I didn't, I had things to do...

Mainly to eat...

Au Pied de Cochon was on my favorites list from my last trip to Montreal so I had to come back.

The atmosphere here is friendly and social. This is a really great restaurant but not an intimate one. People are here chatting, gossiping, celebrating and generally having fun. The floors are rustic wood, tables wood and worn with age and lighting is with globes hanging from the ceiling. If you want to grab a good seat, ask for a counter seat at the bar. The kitchen will be right in front of you. It's a pretty exciting sight to see and makes you appreciate how hard these guys work!

To start off the table I am served a big bowl of soft dark country bread with a malty flavor. I could eat the whole thing. For my "entree" I picked the endive, walnut and blue cheese salad (CDN$8). I sort of wanted the french onion soup but that make me burb. The salad was pretty good but not the best I've had. I thought it was a bit salty and the blue cheese didn't taste so good. I sort of expected a salad completely made with endives but they were mixed win with baby mixed greens. Actually there were more greens then endive.

For my main course it was hard to select from all the meaty specialties ranging from pork feet to venison to duck. To keep it simple I am having what they call "the happy pig chop". Knowing that the dishes here are quite dramatic, god knows what will be on the plate! This place is not for the faint of heart or your vegan friends!

As expected the pork chop was a huge cut of meat but I didn't really like it. First it was smothered in mushrooms, onions and broth which is something I can't stomach. Second it was dry. I broke my "no pork chops at a restaurant" rule. I hate to have dining rules but I can't remember if I have ever been to a restaurant and had a pork chop that wasn't dry. The dish sort of left an onion flavor in my mouth. I need gum.

For dessert I am getting a dish that I have waited a year for. It's called "Pouding Chomeur" which I think has something to do with your grandmother. It is sort of a sponge cake cooked in maple syrup and cream. It's a low fat, low carb dessert, NOT! Last year someone told me th at this is one of the rare places where you can find this on the menu. I actually have the recipe from this restaurant somewhere. I hope this makes up for my other 2 courses that were not to my expectation.

Is it me or am I not re-living the experience? The pouding was also not up to my expectation. It just didn't have the bubbly hot character I remembered. OK, yes it was warm and distinctive maple syrup flavor but the cake part was somwhat flat and cold. Not what I remember.

Today I struggle to give Au Pied de Cochon 3 hearts so I have to give them 2. I think I have to read my review from last year to see why I liked this place. Service was as good as to be expected, friendly but not personal.

Total bill CDN$40.17 (US$36)

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L'Express

3927 St-Dennis, Montreal | Metro Sherbrooke

We landed today at 10.30am, I passed thru customs, picked up my luggage, caught the shuttle bus and I was at my hotel by 11.45am. My "Priceline" room wasn't ready so I grabbed my messenger back and headed out to lunch.

Just as I started my last trip to Montreal, I begin this one at L'Express. Call me unimaginative but I am also having the same meal, Ham and Cheese Quiche with frites (CDN$9.05). I poked thru the menu and nothing else interested me except for the Duck Confit Salad, but it just seemed too heavy and greasy forthis hot day. Can quiche and frites seem less greasy? I have to admit the menu prices here seem a bit high for lunch. Most entres are around CDN$15-20. You could easily have a $40 lunch.

Hello! I won't even spend $5 on a sandwich in our cafeteria at work!

I don't know if the quiche here is better or worse than any other place but how could you ruin quiche? Besides it the frites (french fries) that I really want. I am still glad I got the quiche. It was quite tasty and a good size portion. The fries were the star of the show. They were crisp and piping hot served with a lemon flavored mayo for dipping.

I don't know how they get the fries so good in the french culture. They never taste like anything at home.

For desset I selected the Tartelette Citron (CDN$5.70). The tart is good but not as good as expected. I don't think the crust is dry enough. The lemon custard filling is pretty tart and tangy.

Today I skipped wine and coffee so as not to run up the bill. Besides if I drink wine I will want to sleep. There is no time for that right now. I did get an ice tea (CDN$2.85!!!) but feared asking for a refill. Sometimes outside the USA, ice tea doesn't come with free refills. Considering I could drink 6 glasses, that could be an issue!

I would rate L'Express 3 hearts. The food is good and consistent but I wouldn't cal it special. It's food! Service was friendly and decent. I don't know why but she was friendly at first then went cold. Was it bacause I didn't order the bill elevating wine and coffee?

Total bill CDN$20.06 (US$18).

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Air Canada Flight 7739

Newark Liberty to Montreal Trudeau

As I mentioned earlier, this flight is onboard a CRJ-100 which is a smaller 50 seat regional jet. This is one of Air Canada's "Jazz" branded flight. I guess that is their term for short distance express flights.

Actually, the inside of the jet is pretty nice. It looks like there has been an upgrade since last year. The seats are leather and not too small and the jet is pretty clean. All the announcements are pre-recorded in French and English.

There are only about 15 people onboard and we depart the gate ontime. Unfortunately as we approach the runway the captain announcesd that we are number 22 for take off. Did every jet at Newark decide to depart at 8.30? Dispite our "on-time" departure we actually take off 1 hour later at 9.30am. I don't know how long the actual flying time is but perhaps these types of delays are built into the schedule.

Do these people know that it's a priority for me to have lunch in Montreal?

Speaking of lunch, today I think I will start my first meal at L'Express. After all, this is where I had my first lunch last time I was in Montreal. Tradition. L'Express is a traditional French style bistro serving yummy carbo and fat foods. Like frites, quiche and corque monsieur. I also remember having a good dessert there last year. After lunch I can wander the francophile streets of the "Plateau du Mont Royal" which is the district L'Express is located. It is likely that I may also be back tonight for dinner at Au Pied de Couchon famous for it's pork and hearty dishes.

OK, this Air Canada Jazz flight has turned into "Air Canada Ice". I am sitting by the window exit and it's cold! I am wearing shorts and a tee which is something I rarely do when traveling. Oddly enough I looked at the inflight menu and they offer a pillow and blanket for $2. I guess free amenities are a thing of the past!

Knowing how cheap I am I would rather freeze and have icicles hanging from my nose before I pay $2 for a blanket. Can I at least keep it?

The inflight snack is a beverage and a twin pack of Oreo cookies. I am having coffee to wake up. Oreo cookies? That's not very Canadian!

The flight attendants are very friendly. Lots of lipstick and smiles. I am surprised that there are 3 attendants servicing the plane. That seems like a lot for a small jet.

It's formality time. Canadians have paper work too! Time to fill out the customs form. I declare nothing. OK, do I need to declare my small package of Pepperidge Farm cookies?

Did I ever tell you about the time I was almost deported from Canada? I went there to Toronto to do some freelance work and when I arrive I told them why I was visiting. Big mistake. "Sir you cannot come and work in Canada. Are you suggesting that your trade is so unique that no Canadian can do this?" Oooops I was almost an illegal alien. I guess I never though this because I am white. We usually think of illegals being people who have snuck across the border from Mexico or the South American states.

We are just minutes from landing at Montreal. It looks like we will be only a half hour late. Now all I have to do is figure out how to get into the city from the airport. I know there is a shuttle for about CDN$22 round trip.

Welcome to "i heart montreal".

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Newark Airport

I got an early start this morning but I may have got here too early. My flight is at 8.30am and I got to the airport just before 7am.

Check in at Air Canada was pretty slow as there was only 1 agent to check everyone in. That's one agent handling three lines. What the sense of having a different line for all classes of service if you only have one person to check everyone in? The worst is that there is always a person with an issue in front of me. I think there should be 4 lines, one for elite and first class, one for economy, one for people buying tickets and one for the scum who have issues, changes, heavy luggage and re-routes.

Regardless, I survived. I also landed a exit row, window seat. That's good because if we end up sitting on the tarmac for 2 hours, at least I will have leg room.

Since I am a "Star Alliance Gold" and I am traveling internationally I also get to use United's Red Carpet Club. The only good perk about this is that you get a comfortable, quiet place to sit and a free cup of lousey coffee. It's not as exciting behind those glass doors as you think. The only redeeming factor here is that I stopped on my way to the airport and got a warm cinnamon-raisin bagel to eat with the lousey cup of coffee.

It's about an hour to departure now and I don't see any Air Canada jets at the gates. Somehow I remember thinking this last year when I sat in this same seat. Ultimately the jet can in at the last minute. Actually the trip to Montreal is on a jet, but not a big one. It's on a CRJ which is a 50 seat regional jet. This is my least favorite way to fly. They are never comfortable and have small seats. What do I care? The flight only cost me $45.

I am hoping thaty when I get to Montreal the weather is better then it is here. Yesterday the temperatures went up along with the humidity. It's what we call a HHH day - hazy, hot and humid. Actually it feels like Florida. I hate it. When it's like this I usually just stay inside my air conditioned condo and watch the electric bill go up. From what the weather report says it looks like Montreal may be a mixed bag between heat and drizzles. Who knows...

Oh! My tiny jet just arrived. It's an "Air Canada Jazz". I wonder what that means?

Time to go!

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Live! from Montreal (again)

The Summer is passing fast and I think it's time for a vacation. I have been traveling a lot for work lately and I am on the road almost every other week. So far this year I've been to Houston, Tucson, Asheville, Charlotte, Orlando, Los Angeles, Chicago, Minneapolis, Miami and the Keys, Atlanta and San Diego. I haven't had a real vacation since my Paris trip in November 2005 (see "i heart paris").

Two weeks ago I realized I had a free week and decided that I should use it to my advantage. It may be the last time I get a vacation until Fall. My first choice was to go to Amsterdam, but the good hotels were all booked and the ones that were left were too expensive or dumps. My next choice was Prague, but frequent flyer tickets only offered me a flight through Warsaw with a 7 hour layover. What do you do in Warsaw airport for 7 hours? The I decided I would try Berlin. It sounded like a fun city and the hotels were cheap. Unfortunately, there was a "love" festival going on which filled up a lot of hotels and those that were left had inflated prices. Besides, United Airlines was offering me the same Polish connection and I didn't want to waste my time in an airport. After all this I decided to steer away from Europe because I was only planning a short trip and would spend more time flying and getting over jet-lag then I desired.

After a few calls to United I easily found available free frequent flyer seats from Newark (Paris of the east) to Montreal (Paris of the north) on Air Canada. I vacationed in Montreal at about the same time last year (see the archives on this blog) and decided it was a good idea. After all, I had a good time and I have been dreaming about the food ever since. How could I go wrong? It's only a 1.5 hour flight from Newark, the food is delicious, the shopping is great and the people are friendly. So I booked the flight and a room at the Sheraton Four Points Hotel located in a decent place in the center of the city. Even though this is a decent hotel this is going to be a big let-down because last year I stayed at the luxury Fairmont Queen Elizabeth. Typically I couldn't afford the place but due to a clerical error from Liberty Travel I got a $250 room for $125. You see, it was posted at $125 "per person based on double occupancy". I was one person and when I inquired they told me $125, not catching the error. I doubt the Queen Elizabeth would give away a room for $125.

Anyway, the Four Points would be fine but two days ago I poked around a web-sight called biddingfortravel.com and found that I could probably do better. On Bidding for Travel, people posts their winning bids from Priceline so you have an idea what hotels are going for. They also list the hotels that are usually offered with each zone. After reviewing all this, i went to priceline.com and entered my bid. $70 a night, central Montreal, 3 star hotel for 4 nights. Most of the hotels offered in the Montreal area are pretty good. The only two I was concerned about was a Novotel, which was a little to far to the west and a Holiday Inn, which was a little too "Holiday Inn". So I clicked my mouse and the bid began. As the wheel spun I watched and then the result, I was awarded a room. I crossed my fingers and looked for the hotel name....  THE HYATT REGENCY! Wow! I couldn't have asked for better. A $200 a night hotel room for $70 ($86 with tax). See slide show

It's gonna be a good vacation!

So I'm off. This is my second trip to Montreal and I've seen many of the sights so I am looking forward to wandering, eating and shopping. I might even find something cultural to do, but don't count on it. Mostly I want to hit 4 restaurants that I loved last time I was there, L'Express, Boris Bistro, Au Petit Extra and Au Pied de Cochon. That's 4 meals out of 8 (not including breakfast). I should also try to find a place with good Poutine, that Quebecois specialty. I think it's french fries covered with gravy and cheese curd. I also have a few new places on my short list; Le Grand Comptoir, Le Vaudeville, Bistro L'entrepont, Cafe Cherrier, Le P'tit Plateau, Le Paris and Les Heritiers. We'll see where I end up.

I also just remembered something I had that was memorable at Au Pied de Cochon, it was a dessert called "Pouding Chomeur". The dessert is a piece of very fluffy cake topped with a mixture of cream and maple syrup, then baked at a high temperature until golden and bubbly. Sort of a Canadian version of Sticky Toffee Pudding.

The other good part of this trip is that Quebec no longer allows smoking in bars and restaurants.

I depart for Montreal from Newark Liberty Airport on Wednesday, July 12 at 8.30am. I will begin blogging from the airport and update until I leave on Sunday, July 16. Join me!

If you would like to read my adventures from Montreal in 2005, click on the categories or archives on the right or scroll through this blog.